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This is an excerpt from an article published in issue #60, July/august 1997. For complete articles and issues, click here to go to Restaurant Wine Online Order Form. To see a complete list of Recent Issues, go to Recent Issues page.

Meritage's Integrated, Dynamic Wine Program is Key to its Success

SANTA BARBARA--Mitchell Sjerven is a man on a mission. At his new restaurant, Meritage (pronounced "mair-i-TAHJ"), which he co-owns and operates with chef/partner Lydia Gaitan, Sjerven ("SHOOR-vin") has established a fine dining restaurant focusing on local fare.

His choice of this market niche was no accident. "There are over 300 restaurants in Santa Barbara. But none, apart from The Wine Cask, emphasizes the combination of local produce and wines that we do," he observes.

Indeed, wine is a critical focus at Meritage: It is directly reflected in the restaurant's name [see page 6 for an explanation of Meritage] and featured prominently in the 48 seat restaurant. But it is how Sjerven integrates wine into the restaurant's merchandising and training efforts which helps to make Meritage's wine program a model one--and the restaurant the success it is.

MEETING THE SMALL-RESTAURANT CHALLENGE

Sjerven's challenge at Meritage has been considerable. The restaurant has only 48 seats in the dining room, 8 at the wine bar, and 32 outside (available only when the weather cooperates). In addition, it has only a wine and beer license.

To attract a regular clientele--and elicit the $30+ check average he feels he needs to survive--Sjerven knew that good food was essential. But he also needed an interesting selection of wines, effective merchandising tools, and an extremely well trained staff. How he resolves these, and other, wine program issues may provide ideas for improving your wine sales and service.


I. WINE SELECTION

* Focus on Local Wines

From the first, Meritage focused on Santa Barbara County wines, something few other restaurants in the area do. "I'm amazed, still, that so many local restaurants have a wine list that reads like one you could find in any other part of the country." Thus Sjerven's wine focus gives the restaurant a classic point of differentiation from that of his competition.

* Short Wine List

Sjerven limited his wine list to two pages. Why? "I don't want to overwhelm my customers. I want to keep it simple for guests, so they don't have to agonize over what to order." As a result, Sjerven reprints his list several times a week. He admits, "I pride myself on having a very accurate, uptodate wine list. I want a wine list on the floor at all times that accurately reflects the wines we have. You can't do that if you have a big book." The short list also helps limit inventory levels and enables Sjerven to maximize discounts on wines that he pours by the glass.

* Special Selection Wines

For several months after opening, Sjerven listed very few wines which cost more than $50 a bottle. But as Meritage became established, customers began requesting higher priced wines. So Sjerven added, then expanded, a Special Selection section to the wine list, which includes rare and higher priced bottlings. "Since we expanded the reserve list, we are selling an enormous amount of expensive bottles." As a result, Meritage's check average has climbed from $30 on opening to nearly $35 today.

* Meritage Wines

Sjerven and chef/partner Gaitan selected their restaurant name "because we liked how it sounded", he says. But Sjerven has utilized the wine association as a means both of explaining the restaurant's menu ("It is a blend of Latin, Asian, French, and American influences, like a blending of different varietals.") and introducing Meritage-style wines to guests. "We always feature several by the glass," Sjerven says. He highlights them with an asterisk on the wine list, a device which routinely elicits questions from customers unfamiliar with the wines and provides servers the perfect opening for their wine sales efforts.