|
What, Where & How Wines Are Tasted
Wines for our publication are blind tasted in our offices
according to country of origin, wine type, and price category
by publisher Ronn Wiegand. We taste, but never review, tank
or barrel samples.
Our "Star Rating" System
The Restaurant Wine Star Rating Sytem varies dramatically
from other rating systems, in four major ways:
- it is based on price;
- it can't be converted to points;
- it does not automatically discriminate against wines
on the basis of color, type/varietal, producer, country/region
of origin, vintage, or style; and,
- it is being used by the same tasters on every wine reviewed
(there is no rotating panel).
Reviews Are Based on Quality Related to
Price
Our rating system is based on the selling price in the USA
for every wine tasted. We take case one, non-discounted wholesale
prices from opposite coasts: East Coast western USA wines
& imports from Australasia; West Coast for other imported
wines and eastern USA wines.
In order to establish a meaningful price/value relationship,
several price categories have been established for each type
of wine reviewed (except in a few instances, where we indicate
only "1 Price Category").
Usually, four categories are identified--Low Priced, Medium
Priced, High Priced, and Expensive--for most wine types or
varietals. For each wine or varietal, wines from each price
category are tasted separately. We then rate these wines based
on the quality of each wine within its price category--relative
to its peers. Because of this categorization, our ratings
have little relevance if they are taken out of context; that
is, when someone (unfortunately) suggests a four-star wine
in a Low Priced category is "better than" a similar
wine rated only three-stars in a High Priced category.
That is not the purpose of the system. Therefore, any mention
of Restaurant Wine ratings without mention of the price category
in which the wine was reviewed is misleading and inappropriate--and,
on our part, strongly discouraged.
Other rating systems, which group inexpensive with expensive
wines are not especially useful, since higher price wines
are almost always given higher scores than lower priced wines.
Because the crucial factor in wine purchasing is--and always
will be--selling price, and how that selling price relates
to the quality of the wine in the bottle, our system uncovers
the best values in multiple price niches better than any other.
No Points in Our Reviews
We elect not to assign a "precise" numerical score
for many reasons:
- the use of points projects a halo of objectivity around
wine evaluations, inferring that wine quality can be measured
absolutely, which it absolutely cannot;
- exact point scores cannot be duplicated by tasters on
the same wines on a regular basis, which suggests that a
numerical range (e.g, 80-85 points)--or its equivalent--would
provide a more statistically relevant and useful rating;
- the use of points reduces the taste and flavor of what
is one of the world's most prized and precious beverages
to that of a detached, sterile number.
We prefer using one of man's most enduring, uplifting, and
valued symbols for our reviews--stars.
When using stars in our ratings, we
apply them as follows:
0 stars = Poor (for the wine type & price category)
* = Mediocre-to-average (for the wine type & price category)
** = Good (for the wine type & price category)
*** = Very Good (for the wine type & price category)
**** = Excellent (for the wine type & price category)
***** = Exceptional (for the wine type & price category)
And unlike the 100-point scale, in which the lower end of
the numerical spectrum (0 to 49 points) is rarely used, we
routinely use all of our ratings levels, from 0 to 5 stars.
Not A Discriminatory Review System
One serious deficiency (out of many) with systems that rate
wines on a single, absolute scale is that they have tremendous
built-in biases. In addition to price-discrimination (mentioned
above), they discriminate horrendously against so-called lesser
varietals, lesser types, lesser regions--"lesser"
everything--which the sub-90 point scores for dozens of wine
types reflect.On the other hand, we have given deserving wines
from white Zinfandel to Lemberger 5-star ratings, and will
continue to do so when warranted.
Top Tasters Delivering Consistent Reviews
Finally, we believe that ratings awarded by panels of rotating
tasters (or regular panels with tasters absent) are of little
long-term use, since the panel's ratings have no evident consistency
which would then allow readers to see--and account for--personal
or panel taste biases.
At Restaurant Wine, we use only two tasters, who "blind
taste" and discuss every wine together--as they have
done for the past 18 years. That's consistency. It should
also be noted that the primary taster, Ronn Wiegand, Master
of Wine and Master Sommelier, is a rarity among wine reviewers
in the USA: He is credentialed. He is also the only Master
of Wine or Master Sommelier in the USA who publishes a wine
newsletter.
Only the Cream of the Crop
One other note: Wines we believe are flawed (bacterial spoilage,
excessive volatile acidity), poorly made (too much oak, tannin,
etc.), and/or do not deliver "very good" value for
their price categories--or better--simply are not included
in this publication.
Only the cream of the crop (about 20%-30% of wines tasted)
is written up in Restaurant Wine. For us, each and every one
of them could easily enhance someone's dining experience somewhere,
if given the chance.
|